Which Retinoid Should You Actually Use?

After sunscreen and moisturizer, if I could add only one more step to most people's skincare routine, it would be a retinoid.

Retinoids help with fine lines, texture, pigmentation, clogged pores, acne and overall skin quality. And unlike most of what goes viral online, they have decades of real evidence behind them.

The catch is that "retinoid" is a family, not a single ingredient, and the products range from gentle to "why is my face peeling." So the real question isn't whether to use one. It's which one, and how.

I walk through five different retinoids in this video. Here's the thinking behind how I'd choose.

The retinoid ladder

This is the simplest way I know to explain it.

Your skin converts retinoids step by step until they reach the active form. Roughly: retinyl palmitate, then retinol, then retinal (retinaldehyde), then retinoic acid, which is tretinoin.

The further up the ladder you start, the fewer conversion steps, and generally the stronger the effect. But also the higher the chance of irritation. Retinyl palmitate is very mild. Retinol is the most common over-the-counter form. Retinal is one of the stronger options available without a prescription. Tretinoin is the prescription form your skin actually uses.

That said, formulation matters a lot. A well-made retinal can feel gentler than a harsh retinol. The ladder tells you the potential, not the whole story.

If you're brand new: start boring

A common first step is an encapsulated retinol, such as CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum.

Encapsulated retinol releases slowly, and for many people that makes it easier to tolerate. This one also contains niacinamide, ceramides and hyaluronic acid, is fragrance-free and comes in an airless pump.

Is it exciting? No. But when you're starting retinoids, boring is exactly what you want. The goal of your first retinoid isn't dramatic results in a week. It's getting your skin used to retinoids at all.

If you've used one before and want more punch

The celimax Retinal Shot went viral on TikTok for the wrong reasons: people slathering half a tube over their face. Please don't do that. At best you waste product. At worst you damage your skin barrier.

The formula itself combines retinal with a well-known peptide blend, vitamin C, panthenol and microspicules (tiny needle-like structures from sea sponges that help actives get in). That's a lot of categories in one small tube. It suits people who are already comfortable with a basic retinol, not first-timers.

If you want an eye retinol

The numbuzin No. 9 NAD+ retinol eye cream is an interesting one: partly formula, partly marketing.

I'm sceptical of the NAD+ part. NAD+ biology is real, but it's a large molecule that doesn't get through the skin barrier easily, and we already have niacinamide, which supports the same pathway with a much better topical track record. The "50+ peptides" claim sounds impressive, but more peptides doesn't mean more benefit. Most peptides in skincare don't have strong evidence.

The useful parts are the retinol, a few of the better-studied peptides (including copper peptides), niacinamide, ceramides and a precise applicator that works well around the eyes. So it's an option for fine lines and crepey texture around the eyes, not something to choose for the NAD+.

If your skin hates every retinoid

Some skin reacts to almost every retinoid, even at three nights a week.

SkinBetter's AlphaRet uses a retinoid joined to lactic acid. In a split-face study, it performed similarly to tretinoin or retinol over 12 weeks with much better tolerability, and people used it every night from day one.

The trade-off is cost: it is several times more expensive per millilitre than the others here. So it's mainly worth considering if you've tried other retinoids properly and still can't tolerate them, or don't want the slow ramp-up.

If pigmentation is your main concern

Dr.Reju-All Advanced Retino Mela Serum pairs a gentler retinoid (HPR) with tranexamic acid, an ingredient with good evidence for pigment and melasma, plus niacinamide. Instead of a retinoid and a separate pigment serum, it combines both in one step.

How to start, whichever one you pick

A pea-sized amount for the whole face. At night. Two to three nights a week to start, then build up as your skin allows.

Moisturize. A little dryness or flaking early on is normal. Burning and redness that won't settle means slow down.

Sunscreen every single morning. Non-negotiable when you're on a retinoid.

And give it at least 8 to 12 weeks before you judge it. Retinoids work on how your skin renews itself, and that takes time. Results vary from person to person, and a dermatologist can help if you're unsure what suits your skin.

The right retinoid is the one your skin can tolerate long enough to see results. A gentle one used for a year beats a strong one you quit after two weeks.